SPECTRA

Brand Guide

Graff

Founded 1960 · London

From the Spectra Collection

21.34ct Colombian Emerald Trilliant Diamond Ring in Platinum | Signed Graff

21.34ct Colombian Emerald Trilliant Diamond Ring in Platinum | Signed Graff

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Signed Graff 59.16ct Pear Diamond Necklace in Platinum

Signed Graff 59.16ct Pear Diamond Necklace in Platinum

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Graff 18K Yellow Gold Diamond and Rubies Suite Necklace

Graff 18K Yellow Gold Diamond and Rubies Suite Necklace

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Signature Collections

Butterfly

1980s–present

The recognizable diamond butterfly motif in white and yellow diamonds. I strictly hunt for the earlier examples—the stone selection is noticeably superior to their modern production run.

Fancy Colored Diamond Pieces

1980s–present

This is where Graff cemented his legacy. Vintage pieces featuring documented exceptional colored stones (blue, pink, orange) are the absolute apex of the brand and perform phenomenally.

Classical Settings

1970s–1990s

The early work. Cleaner, far less baroque than modern Graff. These pieces prove that when you have world-class diamonds, you don't need excessive metalwork to make a statement.

Important Single Stones

Ongoing

Graff has handled some of the world's most important diamonds, like the Graff Pink. Any piece containing a documented, significant stone is museum caliber and priced accordingly.

High Jewelry Suites

1970s–present

Complete, matched suites of necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. They are incredibly rare to find intact and command a massive premium over breaking them up into individual pieces.

Authentication Guide

Hallmarks

  • ◆Look for the distinct 'GRAFF' signature, though placement and sizing vary depending on the piece's structure.
  • ◆Assay marks and metal purity stamps will accompany the brand signature on authentic pieces.

What to Look For

  • ✓Breathtaking center stones; Graff is historically known for handling some of the world's most impressive diamonds.
  • ✓Immaculate pavé work and settings that elevate and celebrate large center stones.

Red Flags

  • ✗Mediocre or commercially graded diamonds set poorly.
  • ✗Base metal construction or signs of fading plating.
  • ✗Rough, scratchy, or uneven pavé settings.

Price Ranges

Entry Level
$10,000–$50,000
Small diamond ring, simple pendant with fine diamonds
Mid Range
$50,000–$500,000
Important diamond rings 3–10ct, butterfly pieces, colored stone pieces
High Value
$500,000–$50,000,000+
Exceptional fancy colored diamonds, major diamond suites, pieces containing documented important stones

Best value era: 1970s–1990s

What Dealers Look For

1

While certificates for large stones are incredibly helpful, the majority of estate Graff moves beautifully without original paperwork.

2

Do not be deterred by missing boxes or folios; focus entirely on the stone quality and the setting's craftsmanship.

3

Graff's identity is tied to the diamond. If the stones are spectacular and expertly set, you are looking at the right indicators.

Frequently Asked Questions

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