Brand Guide
Graff
Founded 1960 · London
Laurence Graff built his house on a simple principle: buy the best stones available, anywhere in the world, before anyone else gets to them. He controls more of the diamond supply chain than any other retailer — from rough to finished piece. The result is that Graff pieces consistently feature exceptional stones, and the market has learned to trust that quality floor. The stones tell the story. A Graff diamond will almost always be GIA certified at the top of its grade range — if it's G color, it's the cleanest G you'll find. If it's VS1, it's closer to VVS than to VS2. This isn't accidental; Graff selects ruthlessly and rejects what doesn't meet his standards. Buying a Graff piece unsigned or without provenance is pointless — the premium is entirely in the documentation and the selection guarantee. The collector base is ultra-high-net-worth — serious money, often Middle Eastern, Russian, or Southeast Asian. This creates interesting dynamics: Graff pieces rarely appear in the mainstream auction market because his clients don't need liquidity. When they do appear, they're typically exceptional objects. The market is less liquid than for older houses, which cuts both ways — harder to sell, but also less competition buying. Unsigned pieces are worthless as Graff pieces. Unlike Cartier, where a talented dealer can authenticate an unsigned piece through hallmarks, proportions, and construction, Graff's value is inseparable from the signature and documentation. Never buy Graff without the original receipt and GIA certificates. The modern equivalent of the great historical houses is an accurate description but not a popular one — the art market prefers antiquity. As Graff pieces age into the "vintage" category, they will appreciate. The 1980s and 90s production is already collectible; the 2000s and 2010s will follow.
From the Spectra Collection
Signature Collections
Butterfly
1980s–presentThe recognizable diamond butterfly motif in white and yellow diamonds. I strictly hunt for the earlier examples—the stone selection is noticeably superior to their modern production run.
Fancy Colored Diamond Pieces
1980s–presentThis is where Graff cemented his legacy. Vintage pieces featuring documented exceptional colored stones (blue, pink, orange) are the absolute apex of the brand and perform phenomenally.
Classical Settings
1970s–1990sThe early work. Cleaner, far less baroque than modern Graff. These pieces prove that when you have world-class diamonds, you don't need excessive metalwork to make a statement.
Important Single Stones
OngoingGraff has handled some of the world's most important diamonds, like the Graff Pink. Any piece containing a documented, significant stone is museum caliber and priced accordingly.
High Jewelry Suites
1970s–presentComplete, matched suites of necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. They are incredibly rare to find intact and command a massive premium over breaking them up into individual pieces.
Authentication Guide
Hallmarks
- ◆Look for the distinct 'GRAFF' signature, though placement and sizing vary depending on the piece's structure.
- ◆Assay marks and metal purity stamps will accompany the brand signature on authentic pieces.
What to Look For
- ✓Breathtaking center stones; Graff is historically known for handling some of the world's most impressive diamonds.
- ✓Immaculate pavé work and settings that elevate and celebrate large center stones.
Red Flags
- ✗Mediocre or commercially graded diamonds set poorly.
- ✗Base metal construction or signs of fading plating.
- ✗Rough, scratchy, or uneven pavé settings.
Price Ranges
Best value era: 1970s–1990s
What Dealers Look For
While certificates for large stones are incredibly helpful, the majority of estate Graff moves beautifully without original paperwork.
Do not be deterred by missing boxes or folios; focus entirely on the stone quality and the setting's craftsmanship.
Graff's identity is tied to the diamond. If the stones are spectacular and expertly set, you are looking at the right indicators.
Frequently Asked Questions
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