Brand Guide
Marcus & Co.
Founded 1892 · New York
Signature Collections
Art Nouveau & Plique-à-Jour Enamel
1895–1915This is simply the finest American Art Nouveau ever produced. Herman Marcus understood European aesthetics but built it here. Today it is criminally undervalued compared to René Lalique or Vever. When I see pristine Marcus plique-à-jour naturalistic forms, I buy them up because they are practically given away relative to equivalent French masterworks.
Authentication Guide
Hallmarks
- ◆Pieces may carry the MARCUS & CO stamp, often rendered in crisp, clean typography typical of the era.
- ◆Marks are usually straightforward, denoting the karotage (e.g., 18K or PLAT) alongside the maker.
What to Look For
- ✓Incredible mastery of plique-à-jour and champlevé enamel, rivaling the finest French Art Nouveau houses.
- ✓A delicate, naturalistic design language utilizing unusual gems like opals, peridots, and tourmalines set with exquisite precision.
Red Flags
- ✗Metals failing to test accurately.
- ✗Opaque, flat enamel masquerading as their luminous plique-à-jour work.
- ✗Rigid, poorly cast settings utilizing glued-in center stones.
Price Ranges
Entry Level
$2,000–$8,000
Smaller gold and pearl pins, simple Edwardian diamond brooches
Mid Range
$8,000–$40,000
Significant Art Nouveau enamel and gold brooches, fine Edwardian diamond rings and pendants
High Value
$40,000–$200,000+
Major plique-à-jour enamel suites, exceptional Art Deco diamond and colored stone bracelets
Best value era: 1895–1920s
What Dealers Look For
1
Marcus & Co. is a triumph of American jewelry history. Their pieces offer French-tier quality with a distinct, turn-of-the-century American sensibility.
2
Take time to appreciate the back of the pieces; genuine Marcus & Co. items are as beautifully finished on the reverse as they are on the front.
Frequently Asked Questions
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