SPECTRA

Brand Guide

Mauboussin

Founded 1827 · Paris

From the Spectra Collection

Signature Collections

1950s-70s Colored Stone Suites

1950s–1970s

This is entirely where I focus. These are absolute value buys in massive emeralds and sapphires. You get Place Vendôme setting quality from the golden age—predating Boucheron—without the commercial tax of Cartier.

Authentication Guide

Hallmarks

  • Signed MAUBOUSSIN, commonly accompanied by Paris or France, utilizing sophisticated Art Deco or Retro typography depending on the era.
  • Pieces bear the traditional French hallmarks, anchoring them firmly in the grand tradition of Place Vendôme.

What to Look For

  • The extraordinary quality and saturation of colored gemstones, long a celebrated specialty of the house.
  • Substantial, satisfying heft to the gold and platinum work, particularly in their bold, geometric designs of the 1930s and 40s.

Red Flags

  • Metals that test as base alloys.
  • Poorly cut or heavily included commercial-grade stones that fall short of the house's rigorous colored gem standards.
  • Settings that rely on adhesive rather than expert prongs, bezels, or calibré-cuts.

Price Ranges

Entry Level
$3,000–$12,000
Gold daywear from the 1970s, smaller gem-set rings
Mid Range
$12,000–$60,000
Excellent 1960s-70s cocktail rings, mid-size colored stone suites
High Value
$60,000–$500,000+
Major emerald or sapphire parures, Art Deco museum pieces

Best value era: 1950s–1970s

What Dealers Look For

1

Mauboussin pieces represent an incredible opportunity to acquire top-tier French design, often showcasing colored stones that rival any house in the world.

2

Let the vibrancy of the rubies, sapphires, or emeralds be your primary guide; Mauboussin's eye for color is a strong positive identifying marker.

Frequently Asked Questions

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