Brand Guide
Jean Schlumberger
Founded 1956 · New York
From the Spectra Collection
Signature Collections
Bird on a Rock
1965–PresentThe apex predator of 20th-century jewelry design. A diamond-set bird perched on a massive colored gemstone. I handle dozens a year—the old ones possess a sculptural tension the modern versions lack.
Paillonné Enamel Bangles
1960s–PresentJackie Kennedy's favorite. Massive gold bangles layered with translucent enamel over gold foil. The depth of the pastel blues, greens, and pinks from the 1960s is completely unreproducible today.
Authentication Guide
Hallmarks
- ◆Authentic pieces may be signed as TIFFANY & CO., SCHLUMBERGER, or a combination of both; all are legitimate indicators of his work.
- ◆French-made pieces may carry the relevant French assay marks alongside the signature.
What to Look For
- ✓The paillonné enamel work is the ultimate positive ID, showing incredible depth and luminosity through layers of fired glass over gold foil.
- ✓The sculptural elements, such as textured gold cording and ribbons, feel dynamic and naturalistic, never rigid or stamped out.
Red Flags
- ✗Metals testing incorrectly against their stamps (e.g., base metal instead of 18k gold).
- ✗Stones that are glued rather than meticulously set into the complex, often highly dimensional mountings.
- ✗Enamel that looks painted on or flat, lacking the complex layering and depth of genuine Schlumberger paillonné.
Price Ranges
Best value era: 1970s–1980s
What Dealers Look For
Focus your appreciation on the incredibly labor-intensive paillonné enamel technique. These pieces are miniature works of art, and minor wear points to a piece that has been loved and worn.
Schlumberger's designs are beloved for their joyful, organic forms. Let the movement and vibrancy of the piece guide your confidence.
Frequently Asked Questions
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