SPECTRA

Brand Guide

Tiffany & Co.

Founded 1837 · New York

From the Spectra Collection

Signature Collections

Schlumberger

1956–1987

The absolute pinnacle of American mid-century jewelry. Schlumberger's deep, saturated enamel over 18k gold is legendary. The 'Bird on a Rock' brooches are mandatory acquisitions for top-tier collectors.

Elsa Peretti

1974–present

Only the first decade (1974-1984) matters to collectors. The early sterling silver Bone cuffs possess a heft and seamless execution that the later, lighter production runs simply cannot match.

Paloma Picasso

1980–present

Heavy, bold scale 18k gold from the greed-is-good 1980s era. The early X collection and Scribble brooches are gaining traction with specific era-focused collectors.

Tiffany Setting (Engagement Rings)

1886–present

The iconic six-prong platinum solitaire. The real collector value here lies entirely in the 1920s-1950s examples set with Old European cuts, which are severely underpriced in the current market.

Tiffany Silver

1837–present

Pre-1900 hollowware by Edward C. Moore is serious museum-grade American silver. It trades in an entirely different orbit than standard Tiffany jewelry.

Authentication Guide

Hallmarks

  • Signatures range enormously depending on the era, including 'Tiffany & Co.', 'T&Co', and designer-specific marks like 'Schlumberger'.
  • Pieces sold on memo or consignment throughout Tiffany's history may have inconsistent hallmarks.

What to Look For

  • Classic Tiffany pieces exhibit clean, timeless construction and excellent stone matching.
  • Designer pieces, such as Schlumberger, feature recognizable motifs, vibrant enameling, and spectacular craftsmanship.

Red Flags

  • Metals that test as base alloys, silver plating over brass, or completely wrong metal types.
  • Terrible stone settings, like glued rhinestones or misaligned prongs.
  • Egregiously bad spelling or dramatically incorrect proportions on designer motifs.

Price Ranges

Entry Level
$500–$5,000
Vintage sterling Peretti, small diamond pieces, early Paloma Picasso silver
Mid Range
$5,000–$30,000
Schlumberger enamel brooches, vintage platinum diamond pieces, important Peretti gold
High Value
$30,000–$500,000+
Major Schlumberger pieces (Bird on a Rock), important diamond rings, estate suites

Best value era: 1956–1980 (Schlumberger era)

What Dealers Look For

1

The 'T&Co' abbreviation appears on many legitimate, high-quality pieces.

2

Estate Tiffany pieces almost never come with original blue boxes or paperwork; the value is in the jewelry itself.

3

Appreciate the artistry of Schlumberger and other named designers without viewing slight hand-crafted variations with suspicion.

Frequently Asked Questions

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